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Saving Your Storm Damaged Trees In Belmont

Wednesday, December 7th, 2011

Tips to Save Your Storm-Damaged Trees

By: Dona DeZube

Published: November 17, 2011

Don’t assume your storm-damaged tree needs to be cut down. Trees can easily bounce back if you follow these tips for pruning and storm protection.

Too often, inexperienced arborists recommend thinning interior branches. That’s exactly the wrong thing to do to avoid storm damage.

“For storm protection and recovery, you should be doing the opposite,” Gilman says. “Removing branches from the end of long limbs and retaining the interior branches.”

Even if a storm is strong enough to blow the leaves completely off a tree and bust branches, the tree can remain viable and ready for a comeback. “One episode from a storm is not enough to kill the tree,” Gilman says. The energy reserved in the tree’s roots and limbs will fuel new leaves either that year or the next year.

Storm recovery tips for trees

  • Remove broken, separated, or hanging branches, but don’t prune any live wood that’s healthy. The tree needs the energy stored in its limbs to heal itself.
  • Check for cracks where branches connect to larger limbs. If you see cracks, cut the limb back to the next healthy, whole branch.
  • Make smooth pruning cuts — don’t leave small stumps or ragged pieces jutting out from your damaged tree. Leave the collar — the thickened base of a limb where it attaches to the tree — intact. Collars help heal pruning cuts.
  • Straighten and stake a small damaged tree (4” trunk diameter or less) that’s knocked down. Water it frequently as you would a new tree.
  • After flooding from a hurricane, water trees and plants freely to flush the salt water out of the soil.

When a tree can’t be saved

  • If a tree leans over your house, car, or areas where people walk or play, it has to come down.
  • If your tree is hanging over or touching power lines, removing it isn’t a do-it-yourself task. Call a professional tree removal firm for help.

Cost for tree removal varies according to the size and location of the tree. Expect to pay between $800 and $3,000 to remove a medium-sized tree.

Check tree roots after the storm

A few months after the storm, use a pitch fork to check the big roots coming out of the trunk to make sure they’re alive beyond the first foot or two of their length. Healthy roots are brownish or gray with hard, whitish centers. Dying roots are soft.

If your pitchfork hits solid root, great. If not, you may have to take down your tree before it falls down.

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

Mold Remediation in Belmont, NC

Monday, November 14th, 2011

I recently sold a home that had a mold issue in the crawl space area.  It really caught me off guard.  The home was only 6-7 years old, had plenty of ventilation, and had a vapor barrier. 

The following article is a good outline of the process we did to remedy the problem.  Let me say it was fairly expensive.  Always get 2 or 3 estimates.  The person the inspector recommended was almost double the price of the person who actually did the work.   Irl Dixon

 

 

Mold Remediation: What to Expect When You Hire An Expert

By: Karin Beuerlein 

Published: October 13, 2010 

Mold remediation can be a pricey venture. Here’s what to look for and expect when you call in the professionals. 

Who you gonna call? 

Mold remediation is the Wild West of home improvement. The field largely is unregulated, and anybody can call himself an expert and call just about anything mold. There’s no required separation between who diagnoses the problem and who fixes it. And home inspectors, who evaluate your home’s major systems, don’t necessarily know much about mold remediation.

When you need professional mold remediation, look for an independent consultant with credentials in mold remediation and investigation. Such professionals should: 

  • Demonstrate completion of industry-approved coursework in mold investigation given by the American Board of Industrial Hygiene or the American Council for Accredited Certification (formerly the American Indoor Air Quality Council).
  • Provide a written report that includes lab results of air and surface samples.
  • Work independently from a mold remediation outfit.
  • Refrain from selling you products.

Investigate the mold 

Mold remediation begins with an eyeball investigation that takes anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 hours, depending on where the problem is hiding–in plain sight or behind walls.

Next, the consultant may suggest taking air and surface samples, necessary only to identify your particular mold for health or legal reasons. Always ask the mold remediation consultant why he wants to take samples: He should be able to articulate whatever hypothesis he is trying to confirm. 

Make a mold removal plan 

If cleanup is a simple DIY project, the consultant will advise you about procedures, protective equipment, and tools. He should also tell you where/what moisture problem gave birth to the spores.

If cleanup is beyond amateur status, the consultant should draw up a mold remediation and removal plan that a professional mold remediation company or trusted demolition and building contractor will follow. Make sure the professionals you hire have a long track record, provide references, and are bonded and insured.

Cleanup can be as simple as spraying and disinfecting drywall, or as complex as: 

  • HVAC disinfection
  • Drywall, stud, and insulation removal
  • Cleaning personal belongings
  • HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) filtration

How much it costs 

Mold consultant: $250-$500 (which might include air and surface samples: always ask). 

Air samples: $18-$225 apiece, depending on the laboratory. 

Simple mold removal: $500 for surface mold removal. 

Extensive mold remediation: $6,000-plus for severe infections that require extensive demolition, disinfection, and restoration. 

Check your insurance 

Homeowners insurance typically covers mold remediation and removal only if the problem results from a sudden emergency already covered under your policy, such as a burst pipe. Insurance usually doesn’t pay if the mold resulted from chronic moisture, deferred maintenance, or floodwaters (unless you carry flood insurance).

As always, consult your insurance agent before contracting for work.

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

Energy Savers For Your Belmont Home

Monday, October 31st, 2011

9 Unexpected Energy (and Money) Savers

By:  

Published: December 13, 2010 

Here are a few surprising and simple ways to cut your energy bill this season. 

Put lamps in the corners: Did you know you can switch to a lower wattage bulb in a lamp or lower its dimmer switch and not lose a noticeable amount of light? It’s all about placement. When a lamp is placed in a corner, the light reflects off the adjoining walls, which makes the room lighter and brighter.

Switch to a laptop: If you’re reading this article on a laptop, you’re using 1/3 less energy than if you’re reading this on a desktop.

Choose an LCD TV: If you’re among those considering a flat-screen upgrade from your conventional, CRT TV, choose an LCD screen for the biggest energy save.

Give your water heater a blanket: Just like you pile on extra layers in the winter, your hot water heater can use some extra insulation too. A fiberglass insulation blanket is a simple addition that can cut heat loss and save 4% to 9% on the average water-heating bill.

Turn off the burner before you’re done cooking: When you turn off an electric burner, it doesn’t cool off immediately. Use that to your advantage by turning it off early and using the residual heat to finish up your dish.

Add motion sensors: You might be diligent about shutting off unnecessary lights, but your kids? Not so much. Adding motion sensors to playrooms and bedrooms cost only $15 to $50 per light, and ensures you don’t pay for energy that you’re not using.

Spin laundry faster: The faster your washing machine can spin excess water out of your laundry, the less you’ll need to use your dryer. Many newer washers spin clothes so effectively, they cut drying time and energy consumption in half—which results in an equal drop in your dryer’s energy bill.

Use an ice tray: Stop using your automatic icemaker. It increases your fridge’s energy consumption by 14% to 20%. Ice trays, on the other hand, don’t increase your energy costs one iota.

Use the dishwasher: If you think doing your dishes by hand is greener than powering up the dishwasher, you’re wrong. Dishwashers use about 1/3 as much hot water and relieve that much strain from your energy-taxing water heater. Added bonus: you don’t have to wash any dishes. 

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

Getting Bats Out of Your Belmont Home

Tuesday, October 25th, 2011

Thanks to Bela Lugosi, most Americans are petrified of bats.  What do you do if one comes in your home?  Here’s an article that might help.

Of course, I like to think in terms of prevention.  So what I would ask is how do you keep them out in the first place?  Here are some tips.

If you have gables on your home, make sure there is a screen behind them and that it is tacked down good with no gaps.  As I found out once, bats can also make their way down a bathroom vent.  Make sure your vents are covered with some kind of wiring to stop them.  Finally, on those cool fall and spring nights when you want to open your windows to sleep, only open the ones with screens.    Irl Dixon

Going Batty? Here’s How to Get Rid of Bats in Your House

By: Jan Soults Walker 

Published: October 21, 2011 

Winged creatures invading your home would drive anyone batty. Here’s how to get rid of them. 

Thanks to dark tales of Count Dracula, bats suffer a bad rap. I know these creatures aren’t really out to bite my neck, but the time I discovered a small bat fluttering around our house, all my Midwestern moxie melted away.

My heroic husband came running, sensing something amiss. Perhaps it was my shrieks of “Bat! Bat! Bat in the house!”

Wielding a piece of window screen like a medieval shield, he began “herding” the bat toward the front door. I followed, shrieking unintelligibly. That’s when he calmly put down the screen and herded me to the garage — much to my humiliation. He did eventually get the bat out of the house, all without my “helpful” vocalizations.
 
After the incident (and with a calmer perspective), I asked renowned bat expert Rob Mies if bats have any benefit to home owners. I found out they are nature’s answer to pest control.

“One bat can consume 2,000 to 5,000 insects each night,” he says. “You can encourage bats to dwell on your property — not in your house — by building a bat house.” 

You can find free plans for building a bat house online. Placement of the bat house is important too, so check out those guidelines.
 
So what should you do if a bat makes a debut in your den? Mies suggests these four steps: 

  • Assess occupants. If anyone in the house was bitten by the bat, or if they are unable to tell you whether they were bitten (i.e. a sleeping child), try to capture the bat, contact your local health department, and have it tested for rabies..
  • Stay calm. The bat doesn’t want to attack you — it wants out. Turn on some lights so you can easily see the bat and the bat can see as well. (Contrary to popular belief, bats are not blind.)
  • Create a path. Close the doors to adjoining rooms, then open the doors and windows in the room the bat is in. If possible, turn on a light outside so the bat can readily see the exit.
  • Help it out. The bat will likely fly out the open door or window within a few minutes. You may also want to be more direct and use a small mesh net or pillow case to gently catch the bat in flight. If the bat lands and doesn’t fly again, put on a pair of thick leather work gloves, and slowly approach the bat with a small cardboard box or coffee can. Put the container gently over the bat, slip a piece of cardboard over the opening, and take the bat outside to release it.

Every had bats in your belfry? How did you get rid of them?

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

Get Your Belmont Yard Ready For Winter

Thursday, October 20th, 2011

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2011 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Keeping Your Belmont Property Maintained

Wednesday, September 21st, 2011

Windows need constant attention to prevent expensive replacement costs.  Here are a few tips on how you can add extra life to a major asset for your Belmont property.  Irl Dixon

Save Money by Repairing Windows

By: Dave Toht

Published: March 9, 2010

Repairing worn windows, rather than replacing them, can save you thousands of dollars.

Fact is, none of the symptoms mentioned above necessitate new windows. By repairing windows with a few dollars and some sweat equity, most problems can be remedied. In addition, you’re likely to improve the energy efficiency of the windows you fix. You can avoid the cost of window replacement by addressing some of these scenarios.

All-wood windows

When maintained, wood windows can last 100 years or more; if left unpainted, they quickly degrade. However, even after years of neglect, the damage is often superficial, looking worse than it is. There’s no need to assume the window must be rebuilt. Areas of rotted wood can be renewed with penetrating liquid epoxy. Fill holes in sills and sashes with epoxy putty–it sands easily and is paintable.

Cost: About $20 for enough epoxy putty to mend a 3×5-foot window, $10 for paint and primer to protect your work. Allow three to six hours per window for the restoration.

Because sashes and stops wear with age, wood windows are prone to gaps where air can penetrate. Popular spring bronze weather stripping has a V-shape cross section. The flexible shape applies continual pressure against the window sash and permanently seals gaps while allowing sash movement. Other weather-stripping solutions include tubular vinyl and adhesive foam.

Cost: About $21 for enough spring bronze weather stripping to seal a 3×5-foot window. Allow an hour per window for installation.

Older double-hung wood windows have counter weights to assist raising the sashes. These can be repaired to working order, but the real problem is that the weights and pulleys require a sizeable cavity in the wall that’s not insulated. This void contributes to heat loss. New replacement lifting mechanisms attach to the sash, allowing the cavity to be filled with expandable foam.

Cost: $38 for a replacement lifting mechanism, $4 for spray foam insulation. Allow four hours per window for installation.

Non-wood windows

Windows made of vinyl, fiberglass, and aluminum will last at least 20 years. Unfortunately, the gaskets that seal their sashes don’t have the same life expectancy. Repair holes and small rips by removing the sash and applying silicone sealant to the damage. To replace the gaskets, contact the window manufacturer or a specialty supplier for replacements.

Caulk any punctures or cracks in vinyl- or aluminum-clad windows to prevent water damage to the wood core. Repair loose aluminum sashes by tightening the screws at the corners; try coating the screw threads with a dry-locking compound made for especially for screws.

Cost: A few dollars for silicone or replacement gaskets and parts. Allow an hour or so per window.

Energy savings

Any repairs that improve the ability of your windows to seal against air leakage will yield energy savings. The worse shape your windows are in, the greater the potential savings on your fuel bill—a Vermont field study suggests that sealing a single loose window can save $14 to $20 annually.

But don’t expect more than a couple hundred dollars overall—even some total replacements don’t yield more than that. The real savings is the money you didn’t spend on replacement windows.

Glass issues

In most wood windows, glass is “glazed” in place, held with small metal pieces called points and sealed with putty. Even when the glass is sound, cracked and missing putty should be replaced. Glazing takes practice but is well worth the trouble.

Cost: $6 for points and putty; $32 for two pieces of single-pane glass to refit a 3×5-foot window. Allow three hours per window.

Replace cracked single-pane glass. To remove the old glass from a vinyl window, pry away the vinyl stop with a putty knife. On aluminum windows, the glass is wrapped with a rubber gasket and held by a metal strip. Remove both to free the glass. To re-install, a bead of silicone seals the glass on a vinyl window; for a metal window, clean and reuse the rubber gasket.

Cracked or fogged double-pane windows should be resealed or replaced by a glass fabricator—find them in the Yellow Pages or online directory.

Cost: $175 for double-pane glass to refit a 3×5-foot window.

Hardware failures

Before replacing a balky cranking mechanism on a casement or awning window, try cleaning it and lubricating with white lithium grease. If that doesn’t do the trick, replace the mechanism.

Cost: About $3.50 for lithium grease; $40 should you need a new mechanism. Allow a half hour for lubrication per window; two hours for replacement.

Broken or paint-encrusted sash latches should be replaced.

Cost: From about $10 for a standard brass latch to $40 for an antique reproduction. Latches come in a range of finishes, from brushed metal to colored enamel. Allow about 15 minutes for the switch out.

Dave Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Better Homes & Gardens, and Reader’s Digest. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications. He has glazed more windows than he cares to remember.

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

Gutter Repairs

Friday, September 2nd, 2011

Planning to sell your Belmont home?  Are your gutters overflowing?  They might have a sag preventing water from flowing properly.  Here are a few tips on how to correct this?  Don’t ignore this problem.  You’ll pay later with rotten wood.  Correct it now or face a big repair bill later.  Irl Dixon

Repair Sagging and Leaking Rain Gutters to Save Money

By: Pat Curry 

Published: October 8, 2010 

Repairing sagging and leaking rain gutters is a simple task that can be tackled in a day. 

How to fix leaky gutters

Seal leaky gutter joints and small holes using gutter sealant applied from the inside the gutter. A tube of sealant costs about $5.

Repair larger holes using a gutter patch kit or a scrap of metal flashing glued down with sealant. You’ll find patch kits at home improvement centers for about $10. 

How to straighten sagging gutters

If you suspect a sag, get up on a ladder and sight down the length of the gutter. Gutters should be straight. Long gutters should have a peak in the middle to enable water to run toward downspouts at either end.

The problem area should be easy to spot. In most cases, you can simply reposition loose hangers, using a cordless drill or a hammer.

Here’s how to set stubborn sags straight: 

  • From the ground, prop a long, straight 1×4 or 2×4 brace under the sag.
  • Get up on a ladder and remove a hanger or two near the sag.
  • Sighting along the gutter, adjust the brace until the sag disappears.
  • Replace the hangers. If needed, add one or two new hangers for extra support. They cost less than $3 each.

Serial remodeler Pat Curry is a former senior editor at BUILDER, the official magazine of the National Association of Home Builders, and a frequent contributor to real estate and home-building publications. 

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

Outdoor Grilling in Belmont

Tuesday, August 30th, 2011

So many choices!  If you are like me, staring at all the different grills at Lowe’s or Home Depot, you’re probably asking yourself which one is the best for me?  That’s especially true if you want to spend less than the cost of a used car for one.  Here’s an interesting article from HouseLogic.com and the National Association of Realtors that will show you what you’re getting at each price level.   Irl Dixon

Outdoor Appliance Guide: Gas Grills

By: Douglas Trattner 

Published: April 27, 2010 

With models priced from $29 to $5,000 and up, outdoor gas grills offer convenience and ease-of-use to fit any budget. 

Cost range: $29-$5,000 and up

Likely additional costs: Assembly, natural gas hookup or propane tank, cover

Average life span: 2-16 years 

Sub-$50 range

Grills in the sub-$50 range are often of the tabletop propane variety. These units are constructed of thin painted sheet metal and cheaply fabricated components, all but guaranteeing a short lifespan. Brief 90-day warranties don’t offer much of a safety net.

When it comes to power, these grills are positively entry level, says Marguerite. The single, 12,000 BTU burner is satisfactory for grilling hamburgers and hot dogs but will be far less successful at charring a thick porterhouse. Still, when it comes to portability, these grills have no equal. If you are looking for a highly mobile tailgating grill, look to this sector of the market. 

$50-$150 range

The biggest differences between a $50 gas grill and a $150 grill will be size and fuel source. Boasting cooking areas over twice that of their less expensive counterparts, these grills are the most economical options for families.

Models in this price range run on liquid propane stored in large refillable tanks (as opposed to the small disposable cylinders). Construction quality is moderate, featuring lightweight steel or aluminum bodies. However, the boost in price over the cheapest gas grill models yields an extra burner (albeit a low-powered one). Most are furnished with thin, steel-rod cooking grates that may warp from exposure to high temperatures, such as those from flare-ups. 

$150-$350 range

Marguerite says buyers in this price range can expect to get “middle of the road” power, with burners putting out around 20,000 BTUs. Shoppers should expect a three- or four-burner grill, a roomy cooking surface, and perhaps even a storage cabinet and side burner—a separate burner used for boiling water or other independent cooking chores.

With widths of 20 to 24 inches and boasting around 400 square inches of grill surface, these units can simultaneously cook about two dozen burgers. Homeowners in cool climes who grill year round likely will lament the thin-body construction, says Marguerite. “These grills do a poor job of retaining heat in cold weather,” he says. At this price range, expect less-expensive porcelain-coated steel cooking grates that tend to chip, rust and need replacing at a cost of $30 to $60. 

$350-$600 range

Constructed of heavy cast-aluminum or thick-gauge steel, and utilizing high-quality stainless steel burners, these units are built to last. Parts that do fail will be covered by five- to 10-year warranties.

Averaging between 400 and 500 square inches of cook surface, these units are not substantially larger than those in the $150-$350 category. But they are constructed of heavy cast aluminum or thick-gauge steel and utilize multiple high-quality stainless steel burners. Heavy-duty castors and solid-built carts make it easy to move these grills from spot to spot.

Grills in this category can handle enough food for 15 to 18 people. Buyers are urged to select a burner configuration that appeals to them as some models arrange them front-to-back versus side-to-side, which can complicate indirect cooking. 

$600-$1,500 range

Units starting around $600 feature burners that reach 40,000 BTUs, power that will make short work of even the largest barbecue payloads. Precision controls and even heat distribution give home cooks the ability to simultaneously sear, cook, and keep food warm. To step up to a 36-inch grill that approaches 900 square inches of cook space, a shopper should expect to spend at least $1,000.

Constructed of high-quality stainless steel throughout, these grills will weather years of use. These first-class rigs often include heavy cast-iron grates, side burners, under-grill storage, and even a rotisserie spit and motor. Buyers also get the peace of mind that comes with improved customer service and best-in-class warranties that range from 10 years on burners to 25 years on the body. 

$1,500 to $5,000 range

When you spend upwards of $2,000 on a grill, you’ll get a host of features and quality construction. These appliances boast six or more top-of-the-line burners. Almost standard issue these days is an infrared sear burner that can reach temps topping 700 degrees.

Most include a rear-mounted rotisserie burner with motor, interior and exterior lighting, and even a spring-assisted lid for effortless opening. With the best grills also come the best warranties, typically covering most components for 10 to 25 years. 

Propane vs. natural gas

Homeowners should decide before buying a grill whether they intend to fuel it with propane or natural gas, says Marguerite. While many grills can be converted for around $50, it is best to buy one factory engineered for one fuel type or the other.

Owners of built-in units typically choose natural gas as there are no tanks that need filling and the cost to operate is roughly half that of propane. According to the U.S. Department of Energy’s most recent figures, propane costs $20.47 per million BTUs compared to natural gas’s $12.18. Assuming a homeowner grilled once a week, he or she can expect to pay about $40 per year for propane and $24 for natural gas. Marguerite says that his company charges $150 plus $7 per foot to connect a grill to a natural gas line. 

Suggested extras

A good-fitting cover will extend the life of any outdoor appliance. Expect to pay between $30 and $50. Owners of propane powered grills should consider purchasing a $20 back-up tank so that a fully charged spare is always on hand. A $20 gas gauge will take the guesswork out of estimating a tank’s contents. 

Douglas Trattner has covered household appliances and home improvement for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. As an avid home cook and pit master-in-training, he struggled over the age-old debate of gas versus charcoal grill–so he bought one of each.

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

Maintaining A Garage in Your Belmont Home

Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011

Here’s an interesting article on maintaining your garages courtesy of the National Association of Realtors and HouseLogic.com.  I found this a little close to home because of a problem I had once.  You see, I hate cleaning out a garage so I went quite a while without inspecting mine.  When I finally decided to do it, I noticed some kind of dirt looking thing climbing a wall behind a cardboard box full of my kid’s outdoor toys.  I looked down at the baseboard.  It looked a little wavy.  When I touched it, my finger when right thru the wood.  Termites!  They had come up thru the floor at a small crack in the cement and made a nice home behind the box.  After an expensive termite treatment, it turned out to be a great time to start a contract with an exterminator and start getting my house checked yearly.  Now I doubt if cleaning my garage out more often would have prevented the termites, but I bet they wouldn’t have made a snack out of my baseboard.  Irl Dixon

5 Tips for Inspecting and Maintaining Your Garage

By: G. M. Filisko 

Published: March 15, 2010 

Routine maintenance will help your garage retain its value and keep it trouble-free for decades. 

1. Keep your garage door running smoothly

Most newer garage doors come self-lubricated or with plastic parts that need no oil, according to builder Fred Cann, owner of JRS Solutions in Melville, N.Y. You’ll need to annually oil older doors with metal rollers, hinges, and tracks. “Use a leaf blower to blast all the grit, grime, dust, cobwebs, and dead bugs from the door’s parts,” advises Mark Secord, brand manager for PremierGarage in Mobile, Ala.

Occasionally check the rubber seal on the bottom of your garage door. It can harden or chip away from wear and tear, allowing the elements to seep under your door. Replacing the seal costs less than $100. Your door may be hitting the ground too forcefully and jarring all the parts, crushing the rubber seal, or allowing light to peek through at the bottom when the door is at rest. To correct those problems, says Secord, use a screwdriver to alter the travel limit adjustment located on the door opener’s control box.

Regularly test the garage door’s sensors to be sure they still prevent it from closing if something—like your child or pet—is in the way. 

2. Clean your garage floor

Hose down your garage floor annually to prevent slip hazards, stains, and pockmarks caused by road salt and auto fluids, recommends Secord. You may notice hairline cracks in your concrete slab, but those are generally no cause for concern, says Paul Fisher, owner of Danley’s Garage World in Chicago.

If there’s a serious trip hazard because of concrete that’s crumbled or separated ¼-inch or more, take action. You can try a do-it-yourself patch with a $5 concrete mix from your local hardware store. But patched concrete often doesn’t adhere to the original slab, says Fisher, especially if a car regularly passes over the patched area. If necessary, ask a licensed concrete contractor for an estimate on replacing your slab, which typically costs about $5 per square foot.

Experts disagree on whether to treat a garage slab with a sealant. “Sealants don’t protect the slab at all; they’re just for aesthetics,” says Cann, who worked as an engineer for the city of New York for 10 years. “We had more problems after we sealed and painted garage slabs. The paint would chip, discolor, or become slippery. I’d leave concrete alone.”

Secord, however, sells garage floor sealants and says they protect the concrete, prevent discoloration, and are easier to clean than bare concrete. Do-it-yourself sealants for an average two-car garage cost about $800 to $1,200 and need reapplication every three to five years. One-time, professional applications cost $1,500 to $2,000, says Secord. 

3. Monitor your garage walls and foundation

Inspect interior and exterior walls and the foundation twice a year for moisture and cracks. If you see discoloration or mold, moisture is seeping in from the roof or the walls. Call a building or roofing contractor for an inspection and repair estimates.

Wall and foundation cracks smaller than ¼-inch wide that aren’t causing water damage are typically harmless. “Anything larger than a hairline crack is something to be concerned about,” says Cann. “If one side of your ceiling appears a little lower than the other, the foundation or footing has settled.” That’s sometimes hard to evaluate with a visual inspection; if necessary, get out your level.

Structural concerns require an expert evaluation. Cann suggests hiring a structural engineer, who will charge $200 to $300 per hour but won’t hype potential problems to secure the repair work. 

4. Clean interior doors and gutters

Once a year, clean and inspect the interior door. Make sure the door is properly weatherstripped and that the threshold seal fits snugly against the bottom of the door.

Most building codes require the door allowing entry to your home to be fire-rated and self-closing. If the door is damaged or the self-closing mechanism has failed, repair or replace it. You’ll pay $250 to $300 for a new fire-rated door, plus $25 to $75 for installation.

If your garage has gutters, clean them every spring and fall and inspect them for damage. While you’re at it, check your roof for damaged or missing shingles or tiles. 

5. Watch for pest invasions

Insects like termites and carpenter ants can furtively damage your garage walls. Inspect dark, cool, and moist spots, especially where garage walls meet the foundation, for borings from carpenter ants or termites. “Termites digest the lumber, but carpenter ants tunnel it,” says Cann. “If you see trails of sawdust, it’s carpenter ants. If you see chewed wood, it’ll likely be termites.” Call in pest-control experts for an inspection and treatment.

G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who oversaw the renovation of her condo association’s five-space garage so a sixth space could be added—for her. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

What Type Of Paint To Use On Your Belmont Home

Thursday, August 11th, 2011

I don’t know about you, but I get a little baffled when I’m standing in Lowe’s looking at the different sheens you can get paint in these days.  Here is an article that explains some of them, the problems with each, and which rooms they are best used. 

Let me add some comments of my own as a Real Estate agent from a resale perspective.  I recommend painting everything with flat paint.  Flat paint helps hide imperfections in the walls and believe me, none of your walls are perfect.  Paint bedrooms, hallways, rec rooms, etc. off-white or some other neutral color.  Do not paint them white or a non-neutral, bold color.  White is too hard to keep looking nice and bold colors may turn off many buyers.  Use a while semi-gloss for trim to help highlight the walls.  If you want a little sheen somewhere, save it for the bathrooms.

Guide to Paint Sheens: Oooo, Shiny!

By: Pat Curry 

Published: March 25, 2011 

You think choosing the right color for your paint job is hard? Try picking the right sheen. HouseLogic will help you tell your semi-gloss from your satin finish. 

In the painting world, very shiny translates to very durable. High sheen can take a lot of abuse and a lot of scrubbing. The lower the sheen, the silkier the effect; but, like silk, scrubbing will damage it.

High gloss: The most durable and easiest to clean of all paint sheens, high-gloss paint is hard, ultra-shiny, and light-reflecting. Think appliance-paint tough. High gloss is a good choice for area that sticky fingers touch–cabinets, trim, and doors. High-gloss, however, is too much shine for interior walls. And like a Spandex dress, high gloss shows every bump and roll, so don’t skimp on prep work. 

  • Practical application: kitchens, door and window trim
  • Durability: very high

Semi-gloss: Good for rooms where moisture, drips, and grease stains challenge walls. Also great for trim work that takes a lot of abuse. 

  • Practical application: kitchens, bathrooms, trim, chair rails
  • Durability: high

Satin: Has a yummy luster that, despite the name, often is described as velvety. It’s easy to clean, making it excellent for high-traffic areas. Its biggest flaw is it reveals application flaws, such as roller or brush strokes. Touch-ups later can be tricky.  

  • Practical application: family rooms, foyers, hallways, kid’s bedrooms
  • Durability: high

Eggshell: Between satin and flat on the sheen (and durability) scale is eggshell, so named because it’s essentially a flat (no-shine) finish with little luster, like a chicken’s egg. Eggshell covers wall imperfections well and is a great finish for gathering spaces that don’t get a lot of bumps and scuffs. 

  • Practical application: dining rooms, living rooms, libraries
  • Durability: medium

Flat or matte: A friend to walls that have something to hide, flat/matte soaks up, rather than reflects, light. It has the most pigment and will provide the most coverage, which translates to time and money savings. However, it’s tough to clean without taking paint off with the grime. 

  • Practical application: adult’s bedrooms and other interior rooms that won’t be roughed up by kids
  • Durability: medium-low

More fun sheen facts

  • Dark, richer paint colors have more colorant, which boosts sheen. If you don’t want a super-shiny wall, step down at least one level on the sheen scale. Ditto if you’re painting a large, sun-washed or imperfect wall.
  • Adding sheen also adds price: Valspar Ultra Premium eggshell costs $32, satin $33, and semi-gloss $34.

Pat Curry is a Georgia-based freelance writer who has covered housing and real estate topics for more than a decade, most recently as a contributing editor to Professional Builder and Professional Remodeler magazines.

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

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  • Avg. Days on Market: 69

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