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Irl Dixon
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    Years of Experience: 22

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Direct: 704-616-0307



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Coldwell Banker-Black and Whisnant
365 N. New Hope Rd Suite #6
Gastonia NC


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Archive for September 2011

Belmont Real Estate Property Taxes

Thursday, September 22nd, 2011

When buying or selling a home, it is very important to have a basic knowledge of how the Gaston County and the City of Belmont value your property.  People ask me all the time when will be the next property assessment for Belmont real estate.  They also want to know if they can get their property values lowered since they have bought their new house for so much less than the current property value.  Gaston County is resisting decreasing property values right now and it will probably only happen after the next assessment.  Below is a section taken from the Gaston County Website which will answer some of these questions.  I have highlighted a couple of the important points in bold and red.  The current tax rate for Gaston County is $0.835 and for Belmont is $0.475.  That’s a total of $1.31 for every $100 of assessed value.  So, if your home is valued at $100,000, divide it by 100 which equals 1,000 and then multiply by $1.31.  Your tax value is $1,310.  Irl Dixon

Tax Office

Assessment Duties

In North Carolina, the County Assessor is the official charged with the responsibility of listing, appraising and assessing all real and personal property for tax purposes.

The Valuation Standard:

“Market Value” is the appraisal standard for all property in North Carolina. Since market value is a concept in economic theory and cannot be directly observed, it is best represented by “arms-length” sales.  Thus, sales data becomes an integral part of the information used to create the County’s Schedule of Values, Standards and Rules.  The Schedule must be adopted by the County Commissioners prior to the effective date of the general county-wide reappraisal program. The Schedule becomes the basis for all tax appraisals in the year of the reappraisal and in subsequent non-reappraisal years.  If properly applied, the Schedule of Values, Standards and Rules will result in tax values that reflect the market value standard.

Real Property:

Typically, real property (land and improvements to land) is the largest component of the tax base. The ownership and taxable status of real property is determined annually as of January 1. Under the permanent listing system (which Gaston County adopted in 1984), the owner of real property is not required to “list”. Instead, the tax office records changes to ownership based upon the title documents recorded in the Register of Deeds Office and the Office of the Clerk of Court. Physical changes to properties, such as new construction, etc., are identified from building permits and/or by observation. The property owner also has a legal responsibility to report changes made to a property.

The value of all real estate is determined as of January 1 of the year of the Countywide General Reappraisal. (The County’s last Reappraisal was effective January 1, 2007).  The ownership and taxable status of property is determined annually as of January 1.  Real property taxes are due each September 1. Taxes are payable through January 5 of the following year. Interest accrues a 2% during January and ¾ of 1 % interest each month thereafter until paid in full.

By State law, each county must reappraise all real property at least once every eight years. The Board of County Commissioners may, with approval of the Department of Revenue, advance the reappraisal cycle. Gaston County, like many other counties, has determined that a four or six year reappraisal cycle is more equitable than an eight year cycle. The county completed its last reappraisal in 2007 and the next county-wide reappraisal will be effective as of January 1, 2013.

Keeping Your Belmont Property Maintained

Wednesday, September 21st, 2011

Windows need constant attention to prevent expensive replacement costs.  Here are a few tips on how you can add extra life to a major asset for your Belmont property.  Irl Dixon

Save Money by Repairing Windows

By: Dave Toht

Published: March 9, 2010

Repairing worn windows, rather than replacing them, can save you thousands of dollars.

Fact is, none of the symptoms mentioned above necessitate new windows. By repairing windows with a few dollars and some sweat equity, most problems can be remedied. In addition, you’re likely to improve the energy efficiency of the windows you fix. You can avoid the cost of window replacement by addressing some of these scenarios.

All-wood windows

When maintained, wood windows can last 100 years or more; if left unpainted, they quickly degrade. However, even after years of neglect, the damage is often superficial, looking worse than it is. There’s no need to assume the window must be rebuilt. Areas of rotted wood can be renewed with penetrating liquid epoxy. Fill holes in sills and sashes with epoxy putty–it sands easily and is paintable.

Cost: About $20 for enough epoxy putty to mend a 3×5-foot window, $10 for paint and primer to protect your work. Allow three to six hours per window for the restoration.

Because sashes and stops wear with age, wood windows are prone to gaps where air can penetrate. Popular spring bronze weather stripping has a V-shape cross section. The flexible shape applies continual pressure against the window sash and permanently seals gaps while allowing sash movement. Other weather-stripping solutions include tubular vinyl and adhesive foam.

Cost: About $21 for enough spring bronze weather stripping to seal a 3×5-foot window. Allow an hour per window for installation.

Older double-hung wood windows have counter weights to assist raising the sashes. These can be repaired to working order, but the real problem is that the weights and pulleys require a sizeable cavity in the wall that’s not insulated. This void contributes to heat loss. New replacement lifting mechanisms attach to the sash, allowing the cavity to be filled with expandable foam.

Cost: $38 for a replacement lifting mechanism, $4 for spray foam insulation. Allow four hours per window for installation.

Non-wood windows

Windows made of vinyl, fiberglass, and aluminum will last at least 20 years. Unfortunately, the gaskets that seal their sashes don’t have the same life expectancy. Repair holes and small rips by removing the sash and applying silicone sealant to the damage. To replace the gaskets, contact the window manufacturer or a specialty supplier for replacements.

Caulk any punctures or cracks in vinyl- or aluminum-clad windows to prevent water damage to the wood core. Repair loose aluminum sashes by tightening the screws at the corners; try coating the screw threads with a dry-locking compound made for especially for screws.

Cost: A few dollars for silicone or replacement gaskets and parts. Allow an hour or so per window.

Energy savings

Any repairs that improve the ability of your windows to seal against air leakage will yield energy savings. The worse shape your windows are in, the greater the potential savings on your fuel bill—a Vermont field study suggests that sealing a single loose window can save $14 to $20 annually.

But don’t expect more than a couple hundred dollars overall—even some total replacements don’t yield more than that. The real savings is the money you didn’t spend on replacement windows.

Glass issues

In most wood windows, glass is “glazed” in place, held with small metal pieces called points and sealed with putty. Even when the glass is sound, cracked and missing putty should be replaced. Glazing takes practice but is well worth the trouble.

Cost: $6 for points and putty; $32 for two pieces of single-pane glass to refit a 3×5-foot window. Allow three hours per window.

Replace cracked single-pane glass. To remove the old glass from a vinyl window, pry away the vinyl stop with a putty knife. On aluminum windows, the glass is wrapped with a rubber gasket and held by a metal strip. Remove both to free the glass. To re-install, a bead of silicone seals the glass on a vinyl window; for a metal window, clean and reuse the rubber gasket.

Cracked or fogged double-pane windows should be resealed or replaced by a glass fabricator—find them in the Yellow Pages or online directory.

Cost: $175 for double-pane glass to refit a 3×5-foot window.

Hardware failures

Before replacing a balky cranking mechanism on a casement or awning window, try cleaning it and lubricating with white lithium grease. If that doesn’t do the trick, replace the mechanism.

Cost: About $3.50 for lithium grease; $40 should you need a new mechanism. Allow a half hour for lubrication per window; two hours for replacement.

Broken or paint-encrusted sash latches should be replaced.

Cost: From about $10 for a standard brass latch to $40 for an antique reproduction. Latches come in a range of finishes, from brushed metal to colored enamel. Allow about 15 minutes for the switch out.

Dave Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for The Home Depot, Lowe’s, Better Homes & Gardens, and Reader’s Digest. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications. He has glazed more windows than he cares to remember.

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

Gutter Repairs

Friday, September 2nd, 2011

Planning to sell your Belmont home?  Are your gutters overflowing?  They might have a sag preventing water from flowing properly.  Here are a few tips on how to correct this?  Don’t ignore this problem.  You’ll pay later with rotten wood.  Correct it now or face a big repair bill later.  Irl Dixon

Repair Sagging and Leaking Rain Gutters to Save Money

By: Pat Curry 

Published: October 8, 2010 

Repairing sagging and leaking rain gutters is a simple task that can be tackled in a day. 

How to fix leaky gutters

Seal leaky gutter joints and small holes using gutter sealant applied from the inside the gutter. A tube of sealant costs about $5.

Repair larger holes using a gutter patch kit or a scrap of metal flashing glued down with sealant. You’ll find patch kits at home improvement centers for about $10. 

How to straighten sagging gutters

If you suspect a sag, get up on a ladder and sight down the length of the gutter. Gutters should be straight. Long gutters should have a peak in the middle to enable water to run toward downspouts at either end.

The problem area should be easy to spot. In most cases, you can simply reposition loose hangers, using a cordless drill or a hammer.

Here’s how to set stubborn sags straight: 

  • From the ground, prop a long, straight 1×4 or 2×4 brace under the sag.
  • Get up on a ladder and remove a hanger or two near the sag.
  • Sighting along the gutter, adjust the brace until the sag disappears.
  • Replace the hangers. If needed, add one or two new hangers for extra support. They cost less than $3 each.

Serial remodeler Pat Curry is a former senior editor at BUILDER, the official magazine of the National Association of Home Builders, and a frequent contributor to real estate and home-building publications. 

“Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.”

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